Rio's hottest place to eat – the favelas
Rio de Janeiro's favelas have long been lawless
no-go zones – but now that some have driven out the drug gangs, their
restaurants are attracting increasing numbers of tourists
A steaming
pot of seafood rice arrives at the table with a glass of chilled rosé. The
owner, who would be looking dapper in his chef's whites if it weren't for the
shorts and flip flops on his bottom half, spoons a generous helping of squid,
mussels, plump prawns and a langoustine on to my plate. There's just one thing
that sets the scene apart from the cliches of a touristy lunch in Rio de
Janeiro – I'm in the middle of Rocinha, Brazil's biggest favela, sitting in a
narrow alleyway outside a restaurant with no name and no menu. There were no
street signs to follow either. As soon as I strolled into Rocinha I needed
directions to find Travessa Gregório 5. Happily, a vendor in a nearby market
abandoned his stall to lead me.
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